Archive for September, 2010

Companion gardening and how it affects plants

September 30th, 2010
2427558191 6f9bacc4ae m Companion gardening and how it affects plants

Plants may either encourage or inhibit the health and productivity of their neighbours, whether in the vegetable or the flower garden. It is of great benefit to know which plants are companions’ for each other when you are planning what to sow where.

Some plants’ root and leaf excretions seem able to repel harmful insects, other plants may enrich the soil, or control weeds, or provide shelter.

Here are various tips that I’ve come across, offered with thanks to our many gardening ancestors for passing on their observations:

Plant sweet peas among your runner beans in June, you’ll attract more bees to the beans and improve pollination.

Aromatic herbs provide the traditional border for the vegetable garden. Their scents deter many garden pests and they also stimulate growth in nearby vegetables. Only fennel and wormwood are exceptions.

Peas and beans tend to flourish when grown by carrots, cauliflower and beetroot, but growing them close to onions will be to their detriment. And don’t plant gladioli anywhere near them if you want a decent crop.

Broad beans will be free from caterpillars if there are gooseberry bushes nearby.

Cabbages love herbs. Chamomile, mint, sage, hyssop, thyme, dill and rosemary all repel the cabbage-white butterfly. Tomatoes also keep the cabbage-white away. But strawberries grown too close to cabbages will have an adverse effect.

Carrot crops grow well with any members of the allium family, such as chives, onions and leeks. The alliums promote growth and flavour and suppress the carrot fly. The carrot fly also hates aromatic herbs. Grow carrots and onions in alternate rows.

Potatoes should never be planted with onions. Grow them with sweetcorn or broad beans instead.

Tomatoes like to be grown near basil, balm and borage, and do especially well if there are a few stinging nettles nearby. Tomatoes also make friends with asparagus.

Sweetcorn and pumpkins can be grown in alternating rows; the corn provides shelter for the pumpkins.

Marigolds are wonderful. They improve just about everything. Plant them all over the vegetable garden and let them self-seed in subsequent years. Potatoes, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, sweetcorn, strawberries, runner beans and French beans all do well with marigolds close by. It seems that the root secretions from the flowers kill eelworms (nematodes). Marigolds also suppress weeds such as ground elder, bindweed and couch grass, and deter wireworms, millipedes, greenfly and a host of other nasties.

Nasturtiums grown under apple trees are thought to protect the trees from woolly aphis. They also appear to deter whitefly.

Grow garlic to keep pests away from fruit, especially raspberries and grapes. It also keeps black spot off the roses. In fact, the Dorset author Thomas Hardy recorded the custom of planting an onion beside a rose bush to make the roses smell sweeter’.

There are lots more tips to be found in gardening magazines and books. Look out for them and pop them into a notebook. You will be helping future generations of gardeners.

Related Posts:

Ways to maintain healthy lawns and gardens without using harmful chemicals – Part 1

September 25th, 2010
3889057457 20e3e51da5 m Ways to maintain healthy lawns and gardens without using harmful chemicals   Part 1

It’s been 100 years since chemist Fritz Huber cooked up the first batch of Nitrogen fertilizer at his lab in Karlsruhe, Germany.

One hundred years.

It won Huber the Nobel Prize in Chemistry. Today, man-made fertilizer comes with catchy names like “Turf Builder”, “Miracle-Gro” and “LiquaFeed”. But the basic formula remains the same: Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. N-P-K. 100 years ago, chemical fertilizer was an exciting, new concept. Today, it’s Yesterday’s News.

Chemicals are SO 20th century.

Yes, they pollute the planet. But why use them when newer science is a mouse-click away? We know so much more about soil chemistry, photosynthesis and plant hormones. DNA and mitochondria. Microbes and macrobes. Far more than Nobel-winner Huber knew, a century ago.

Want to be a cutting edge gardener? Think you can grow Gold Standard Grass? Bloom bigger, better flowers through chemistry? Switch to the Scientific Method. Presenting 7 Steps toward the chemical-free, 21st-century garden:

1. GET A SOIL TEST. Soil Scientists at your local Cooperative Extension Service will analyze your sample in their lab. You’ll get a state-of-the-art breakdown of its chemistry, and advice on improving its Cation Exchange Capacity – a key to soil quality. Odds are, you need more organic matter. Not N, P or K.

2. TOSS THE FERTILIZERS. Yes, Fertilizers are Harmful Chemicals. Throw those man-made fertilizers in the noxious waste pile. Friendly insects and arthropods HATE them; they make microbes cringe. Worst of all, too much of some can freeze uptake of other nutrients. Besides, those concentrated chemical “fertilizers” build up over time, then damage everything you grow. Green thumbs begin with Humates and Humic Acids. Not man-made fertilizer.

3. MAKE FEATHERED FRIENDS. Get out there and cater to your native birds. Put up birdbaths and birdfeeders. Grow berry-producing plants. Why? Birds eat insects and weed seeds. Plus they deposit free fertilizer every time they visit. Birds are beneficial.

4. APPRECIATE YOUR EARTHWORMS. They generate tons of vitamin-packed Humic Acids, Their castings are 50 percent higher in organic matter, 7 times richer in Phosphorus, and packed with Potash, Nitrogen, Magnesiu and Calcium. Earthworms also aerate your Soil, and they do it with amazing efficiency.

5. RESIST ROTOTILLING. It pulverizes soil, de-Oxygenates the ground, flattens the land, compacts everything and brings dormant weed seeds to the surface. We didn’t know that long ago. Want to mix amendments into your soil? Light hand digging is all you need. Ants and Earthworms will do the rest.

6. BANISH PESTICIDES. That includes organic pesticides and fungicides like horticultural oil, pyrethrum, even baking soda. Newer: Integrated Pest Management (“IPM”), putting entomology to work in the garden. Nice, because you don’t get those nasty side effects like wiping out the entire beneficial Fungus and Microbes populations.

7. KITCHEN COMPOST. We know that protozoa, bacteria, nematodes and fungi transform organic matter into natural, easy to digest plant superfoods. Toss a little dirt on top and watch your microbes grow.

The world is moving at the speed of light. In the past 5 years we’ve cloned sheep and horses. Bloomed the first blue Roses. Cracked the genetic code of symbiotic Fungi. The Earth is round. Landscapes grown without chemicals aren’t just safer. They’re more beautiful.

Related Posts:

Hideaway Hoses Are The Trick To Award Winning Roses

September 23rd, 2010
26627350 43dee32b8b m Hideaway Hoses Are The Trick To Award Winning Roses

My favourite nursery rhyme goes like this: “Mary Mary quite contrary, how does your garden grow” Queen Mary, for whom the rhyme is about, was a staunch Catholic and the garden referred to is an allusion to graveyards which were increasing in size with those who dared to continue to adhere to the Protestant faith. However, as a child I remember the enchantment was more about flowers plants and lush green grass. It was this kind of memory that bloomed my interest in making things grow.

The most effective way to make your garden grow and bloom is to learn how to plant and care for Roses. Roses can be expensive to both buy and grow, so making sure you have the right knowledge combined with the right tools is ever important. A good hose reel, for maximum watering with minimum fuss is a hideaway hose reel.

According to experienced Rosarians (professional rose-growers), there are a number of factors involved in growing and exhibiting an award-winning rose.

Rose Planting Guide

Roses come in three types of packaging.

-Plantable box

-Packaged

-Potted or Container

Which packaging you choose is based on your garden needs. You will find boxed and packaged roses are better to tackle earlier in the season. Potted roses are available when the weather becomes a little warmer and so better for later planting. Follow these easy instructions on how to plant your Roses. If you can dig a hole, you can plant a Rose.

It’s just as easy to plant a Rose as it is to plant perennials, annuals or any other outdoor plants. However, the direction for planting your plantable box, package and container / potted roses will vary, it’s very simple. First, read the instructions (if supplied) then follow the next easy steps to digging, planting, and watering your garden

FIRST: Prepare your rose bed by spading deep. Spading is simply digging a hole with a flat head shovel. For each plant dig a hole approximately 14 – 20″ wide and deep depending on the size. Add organic matter and mix well with the existing soil. Organic matter is usually in the form of manure, shredded leaves, or peat moss (shredded leaves are cheapest if you can collect and store them yourself). If not, your nearest nursery or farm will have the next best thing.

NEXT: Carefully take your rosebush from the container. Remove any broken or injured roots or canes and canes less than pencil-size in thickness. Position the rose on soil pyramid so the bud union (swelling at the stem base) is just above the ground level. In climates where the winter temperature falls below 0F, it is best to position the rose 1″ to 2″ inches lower.

Work soil mixture around the box to eliminate any air pockets. Add more soil until the hole is three quarters full. Fill the hole with water and allow it to soak in, then refill again with water. After the water drains check to see if the bud union remains at the proper level. Fill the remainder of the hole with soil.

Make sure you water the rosebush well. For your own safety and convenience we recommend an innovative compact hide away hose reel, they’re simple to use and keep the garden and shed nice and tidy.

It’s that simple!

Rose Growing Guide:

Once planted, the next important stage is nurturing them into strong growth. Firstly you should have picked varieties of roses that do well in your local area. To determine which are best, you can contact a local rose society or nursery.

There are many pests, both insect and fungus, which love to infest your roses, so make sure you spray to prevent the fungal diseases rather than trying to eradicate them after they appear. When insects do appear, follow label directions on all chemicals you use.

Provide water. A large rose bush may need as much as 10 gallons of water each week, but be careful if there is not adequate drainage. You should water overhead early in the day when the leaves have adequate time to dry before nightfall. This helps prevent black spot.

Once established, fertilize the plant with a 20-20-20 fertilizer every three weeks beginning at the end of May and continuing to August. And you should make sure the plant is well-watered before fertilizing.

Planting is easy with our guide, watering is simple with a compact hideaway hose reel.

All you need now is some warm days and a little patience and for sure you will make your garden grow though hopefully not in the same spirit of Queen Mary!

Related Posts:

True gardening stories: The worst pest experience – Part 9

September 20th, 2010
2978492782 3bfd94d9d9 m True gardening stories: The worst pest experience   Part 9

Spring has officially arrived here in upstate NY. We had a very dicey April, with some nagging snowfalls and sagging temperatures. Until about one week ago, the trees were bare. However, since we lost nearly two full months from the ’06-’07 ski season back around the New Year, we had to expect winter to hang on longer than usual.

Now, suddenly, our trees are filled with verdant leaves and all sorts of fabulous blossoms in shades from white to blood-red. All the flowers are blooming at once, racing to beat the freshly-sprouted weeds (which are growing faster than I can yank them out).

We have visitors now, unfortunately. When the snow finally melted I grabbed my leaf-rake and set out to rid our garden of last fall’s crop of leaves, which I’d left throughout the garden as cover. As I swept the leaves out from among the plants, one of my three miserable rose bushes came along, too! You could have fit what was left of the rootball into a trial-size spice canister.

The culprit? Voles! I learned this by running a Google search, of course. These voracious critters love all sorts of plant roots and bulbs, but especially favor tulips and roses. Though they are called garden voles, they seem to be a mouse of one sort or another. And there are a lot of them! They burrow into the ground via holes the size of golf balls, and leave ugly furrows just beneath the surface-easily spotted since the ground collapses into them.

How does one rid one’s garden of these pernicious beasts? I haven’t answered that question yet, but not for lack of effort. Being the sort who likes easy solutions, I tried “smoke bombs” first: they seemed the simplest and most devastating method. They also seemed to work, at first. I was easily deceived, and didn’t hear the little monsters laughing at me there in their secret underground lairs. Oh, I’m sure a few of their valiant soldiers died in the struggle. Their funerals were well-attended, no doubt.

The survivors have vowed to plow up every inch of my assorted gardens, to gobble every remaining bulb and root, and to colonize any previously unmolested sanctuary. They trip my silly mousetraps, and shun my delectable poison bait-packs. They do, however, very much approve of the lovely mulch I spread for them; they shuffle it all around to suit their needs each day. If I had a gun, and it was legal to use it here in the suburbs, I’d give it a shot. I’ve never actually seen one of these animals doing their dirty-work, so I can’t imagine how I’d ever get a chance to snipe at them. If my cat was brave enough to go outdoors, and if she had any front claws, perhaps she could help in the war. I haven’t thought of anything else that might work.

I’ll continue the battle, but I won’t utter any further complaint about the arrival of Spring. We had a long and odd winter, with only a single ski outing and just a few trips to our nearby sledding hill. Now the chill is gone from the air, and the threat of post-season snowfalls has passed. Spring here in western New York is notoriously short, and has to be savored wholeheartedly.

The symphony of dozens of lawn-mowers fills the air, while gorgeous blossoming trees brighten every street. Nearly all the good TV shows have fired their final salvos: it’s time to get outside and enjoy our world. Summer will be here soon enough, with another dreary winter only moments behind it. What’s not to love?

copyright 2007 – all rights reserved

Related Posts:

True gardening stories: The worst pest experience

September 18th, 2010
3792409339 0afbba0094 m True gardening stories: The worst pest experience

Mary’s rose garden was envied by the whole neighborhood.The whole side of her back porch was a curtain of lush red roses. The bushes were so thick. The vines and flowers hung solid without a trellis. Mary had a green thumb no one would deny. One Saturday night however, she also had a red swollen arm.

On Friday, Mary’s son noticed a whole bunch of strange bugs on her prize wall of red roses. He described it as “The Star Trek” bug. These little bugs were green with red “saddle” like sides and large antennae. They had little spike like things on the saddle part. Mary had never seen anything like them. So, on Saturday morning, she decided to capture a couple and take them to the local nursery to see if someone could tell her what they were and if the would harm her roses. She managed to capture several and put them in a mason jar. In the process of doing so she was stung on the arm by the little spiky things. At the nursery, she found out that the bugs were called “saddle bugs”. These insects were sort of rare for that area of the country. She was also told if stung a person might need steroids because these little bugs had a nasty sting. By that time, her arm was swelling so she went to the doctor.

The little alien looking bugs not only caused Mary to have to endure a round of steroids. The place where she was stung swelled and was very painful. The worst part of the whole ordeal ended up being the loss of the rose curtain. The bugs infested the three bushes which formed the base of the wall of flowers. In treating the bugs the roses were lost. They never grew back the same way as before the alien bugs. Mary had other roses in the garden none of which were effected by the bugs. After the rose curtain was gone, the saddle bugs were not seen in the garden again.

Related Posts: