Archive for July, 2010

How To Grow Tomatoes In Your Vegetable Garden

July 30th, 2010
3582008444 1343b72da4 m How To Grow Tomatoes In Your Vegetable Garden

For many people, growing big juicy tomatoes is part of what makes vegetable gardening so enjoyable. Whether purchasing plants from your local nursery or starting tomatoes from seed, there are a few basic steps to follow to ensure that you harvest an abundant crop at the end of the growing season. There are many different varieties of tomatoes to choose from, depending on whether you will be cooking, canning, slicing, or eating miniature or grape-like varieties right off the vine. Sweet 100ís are very abundant, and are good for salads as well as eating fresh from the garden. Roma tomatoes are good for making salsa, because the peels are not as tough as others so you donít need to peel the skins off. Romas are also known as the classic paste and sauce tomato. There are Early Girls, Early Boys, Big Boys, Big Mamas, Sweet Baby Girls, Beefsteaks, French Rose hybrids, Big Rainbow, specialty tomatoes and many more. So start by choosing the kind of tomato you would like to grow.

Planting Tomatoes from Seeds

Tomatoes grown from seed will require six to eight weeks before they can be planted in the garden. Purchase individual containers or flats, starter soil or mixture, and the seeds of your choice. Fill each container with soil, pressing it tightly to remove air and to avoid settling problems after watering. Typically, seed companies print instructions for planting right on the tomato seed package. Each variety is a little different so follow instructions carefully. Prepare a label identifying the type of tomato and the date started. You can make your own from Popsicle sticks or purchase them at the store or garden center.

Insert your label in the pot and mist with water. Place containers in a sunny window and keep seeds moist by placing a plastic bag over them. Small greenhouse containers are also available at your local nursery. Watch for seeds to germinate and remove plastic when plants emerge. Wean out weaker looking seedlings to give strong ones more room to grow. Keep moist by misting or watering tomatoes when needed. When plants have a second pair of leaves it is time to transplant these seedlings to your garden or a large pot in which they are to grow.

It is a good idea to harden off or acclimatize a plant to outdoor conditions before planting by setting it out in direct sun during the day and bringing it in at night. After a few days, the tomato plant will have adapted to the new surroundings and can be transplanted in the desired location. Place plants directly outdoors after the threat of frost in a shady location, out of the wind and protected from heavy rains.

Purchasing Started Plants

If you prefer to purchase plants from your garden center or greenhouse, select dark green plants that are stocky in size and that do not have any fruit. The fruit will stunt the plant growth and the total yield will be reduced. Tomatoes are one of the few plants that will tolerate being planted deeper than they sit in the pot. So a taller plant can be placed a little deeper if preferred. As mentioned, harden off the plant before moving it to a final location.

Preparing Garden Soil For Tomato Plants
The soil should be deep, loamy, and well-drained for the best harvest. Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8. The term pH balance refers to acidity or the alkalinity of your soil from a numerical scale of 1.0 to 14.0. The neutral point on the pH scale is 7.0. Higher than 6.5 indicates alkaline soil, lower than that indicates acidic soil.

Test kits are available at garden centers or through local horticultural organizations. To raise the soilís pH, work agriculture lime into the soil. Use sulfur to lower the pH of alkaline soil. Using fertilizers and compost amendments will also change the soilís pH over time. Adding decomposed organic compost will improve any soil structure. You can purchase or make your own compost. Once you have cultivated your garden area and prepared the soil, it is ready for the plantings.

Planting The Tomatoes

Inspect all of the transplants, looking for insects, wilting or blight. Plant only healthy plants. Tomatoes prefer full sun, so choose an area with at least six to eight hours of sun per day. Practice crop rotation in your vegetable gardening by planting tomatoes and other vegetables in a different spot every year. Tomatoes prefer to be planted by chives, parsley, marigolds, nasturtiums, garlic bulbs, and carrots. Avoid planting tomatoes by potatoes or members of the cabbage family.

For large healthy tomatoes, give them plenty of room to grow. Space plants twenty-four inches between rows and leave twenty-four inches between plants. With your shovel or spade, make holes slightly larger than the plants. Tap gently on the bottom of the individual container, loosening the soil and gently removing from the pot. Tomatoes are susceptible to cutworms, but placing a 3-4 inch nail next to each stem before planting or wrapping strips of newspaper around the bottom of the stems will help prevent these pests. A paper cup surrounding the stem also works well.

Place tomato plant in hole and back fill with soil until it is well compacted. Place a rack or cage around each individual plant to help support future growth. Water around the base of the plant, avoiding the foliage. Do not over water or soak the seedlings as this can promote disease and rot. Water early in the day to discourage blight.

Using a rake, spread organic mulch, such as weed-free straw, over plants at least two inches deep. These is an effective way to prevent weeds, preserve water and keep the soil warm, thus reducing the maintenance required for vegetable gardening. Fertilize the plants throughout the growing season with compost or organic matter. Water when needed and inspect leaves periodically for the signs of tomato blight and insects. If blight is discovered, remove any infected leaves and destroy them. Treat plant with a fungicide. Be sure to remove all debris from your garden in the fall, as blight can survive on the dried tomatoes over the winter.

Most tomatoes take 100-days to bear fruit, so follow these easy directions and get ready to harvest the fruits of your labors and enjoy that first BLT of the season.

Items Needed For Growing Tomatoes:

- Tomato seeds or plants
- Containers or flats
- A small greenhouse kit or plastic bags
- Starter soil or mixture
- Marking pen
- Popsicle sticks or labels
- Rake
- Spade and shovel
- Water, sun, adequate soil and patience

Related Posts:

A Winter Rose – How To Prepare Your Roses For Winter

July 24th, 2010
3499001690 4dce248cdd m A Winter Rose   How To Prepare Your Roses For Winter

How to prepare any rose for winter always depends on temperature. In general, if in your area during winter the temperature drops to minus 10 degrees F or lower then any rose bush will need some protection.

Note: If you live in a area that has a mild winter then most of the following will not apply. However, the advice on fertilizing and watering in general does. (In mild winter areas a rose never really goes dormant though does require a season of rest).

Whether you have a hybrid tea, floribunda, tree rose, miniature or climber the goal is always the same… To protect the crown and roots of the plant from the worst of the winter cold and possible mid-winter thaws and re-freezings.

In the case of climbing roses and tree roses you will also need to protect the upper parts (long canes for climbers and top flowering crown for rose standards) as well.

Preparing a rose for winter will always start in spring ( yes, I did mean spring). Any rose that has had a long and well tended growing season will be better able to tolerate the worst any winter has to offer.

Throughout the growing season be sure to water a rose deeply (allow the soil to dry to a depth of 2 inches or so before watering again, the root system needs air too) and fertilize regularly which will encourage a deep and healthy root system as well as healthy canes and flowers.

Roses store nutrients in their woody canes and so the bigger the plant the healthier it will be. Maintain a routine of pest and disease prevention as well as careful pruning to remove spindly growth and damaged or diseased canes.

About mid to late August stop fertilizing though do continue to water deeply (never let the roots of a rose completely dry out). About late September stop cutting blooms and allow a few rose hips to develop which will be a signal to the plant that it’s dormant period is approaching.

Once you have had a few good frosts, leaves will start falling. Apply a dormant spray such as lime sulfur or a dormant oil spray. This will kill pests and fungal diseases that might try to over-winter on the plant or surrounding soil. It can also help nudge those final leaves off. Rake leaves from around your plants and throughout your yard to prevent the spread of disease or a place for pests to hide.

Continue watering only as needed until the first hard frost and the ground is frozen. At this point cover the base (crown) of the plant and the surrounding soil (about 12 inches around the base of the plant) with a thick layer of straw, leaves or mulch and then cover with a few inches of soil. Do not remove soil from around the plant to cover the crown, that soil is needed to insulate the rest of the surrounding roots. Instead, use soil from another part of the garden.

Climbing roses require the same protection listed above and in addition will need to have their long canes protected as well. Carefully remove the canes from the trellis, fence or wall they are tied to, lay them on the ground and cover with a thick layer of straw, leaves or mulch and a few inches of soil just like the base of the plant.

Tree roses are a special case in that not only do you need to protect the base and “trunk” of the plant but the top flowering crown as well.

There are 3 ways to over-winter a rose standard if it is planted in the ground. One, is to dig the plant up keeping a good sized root-ball and “heal” the plant into a large container then move it into a shed or garage for the winter. As spring approaches the plant is brought back outside and re-planted in the ground.

The second method is to carefully remove some soil from one side of the plant and bend it until it is laying on its side and then covering the entire plant with a thick layer of straw, leaves or mulch and 3 to 4 inches of soil. This method can be tricky for the novice gardener as there is a danger of cracking or breaking the plant at one of its grafting points.

The third method may be the easiest for a ground planted tree rose. First, wrap the entire plant in a thick layer of straw and burlap taking care to fully protect the plant from top to bottom. Secure everything with either clips, string, twine or wire and after taking a few measurements construct a ply-wood box (with an open bottom) to place around or over the plant.

Rose standards that are planted in containers are the easiest to care for. After following the advice for preparing a rose for winter listed above, simply move into a shed or garage where the temperature will be milder than the temperature outside. Check the soil now and then to make sure the roots do not dry out (water lightly when needed) and move back outside once the danger of frost has past.

Late winter – early spring: When there is no longer a danger of a killing freeze uncover your roses and water deeply if needed. Once new growth starts to appear is when you’ll want to prune. Remove any damaged or spindly canes and prune back healthy canes by 1/3 to 1/2. Then fertilize and follow all the steps necessary to promote healthy vigorous plants for the entire growing season.

Good Luck and Happy Gardening!

Related Posts:

Secret Revealed: Formula For Effective Rose Growing

July 20th, 2010
2884655478 29b8a614a8 m Secret Revealed: Formula For Effective Rose Growing

Roses are beautiful and signify love. Rose gardening is an activity that can serve lots of purposes. At its simplest, rose gardening consists of five parts, or five “Ps”: Plan, Prepare, Plant, Prune, and Protect.

With careful planning and good maintenance, you can enjoy a beautiful blooming garden that your friends and neighbors will admire. While roses are the centerpiece of any garden landscape, these special flowers do require some specialized care and the right rose gardening tools will help you to do the job. Although roses have a reputation of being difficult to grow and keep, rose gardening is actually very simple and rewarding.

Roses also like good circulation, so it is wise to plant them with sufficient spacing for future growth. To make a rose garden at times can prove to be difficult, but people do not have to be an expert to grow them. Many people opt to match the colors of other flowers in their yard or even build their rose gardens to compliment the colors of their houses.

Some Rose Growing Tools:

-Leather gardening gloves will not only protect you, but also let you enjoy gardening of roses.
-You should also consider the locking device on the shears, especially if you have young children.
-It is a good idea to buy both a large rake and a smaller one for getting into those tighter places.
-Purchasing a simple wheelbarrow is an important part of gardening.
-It is important to shop carefully and to choose a kneeling pad that works for you.

Some Tips For Rose Gardening:

- Do not hesitate to approach a professional gardener or a nursery owner/employee to ask about the bug and insect problems in your rose garden.
- A good site should ideally receive six hours of sun a day, or at least a good dose of sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.
- You should select heavy, leather gloves with a cuff so that your hands will be protected especially while pruning your rose plants.
- Be prepared ahead of time and your planting job and rose maintenance will be much easier.
Your first step in any garden project is to plan, and rose gardening is no exception.
Roses growing environment is also essential to realize.

Some Rose Gardening Tips Resources:

- Even if you’re more experienced with gardening in general, or roses in particular, you can gain a great deal from rose gardening books.
- There are a large number of books dedicated to horticulture and gardening, and several of these concentrate on tips and tricks for rose gardening.
- Besides books and magazines, you can also find volumes of help on the internet, where you can perform a direct search for the problem at hand.
- If you are Internet savvy, you can also find information online on how to deal with rose garden pests.
- While you could visit your local library and index books, magazines, and other periodicals, the internet is now the information superhighway, where you are guaranteed to find information related to your search on gardening help.

Some Rose Variety:

-The Sempevirens is similar to the Boursault, in that it is also a climbing rose.
-The setigera rose has been used in breeding programs to create many very hardy varieties of climbing roses, most notably the crosses with the Noisettes and Gallicas varieties.
-The Sempervirens originated in the Mediterranean region of the world, and it has large leaves accented by small white flowers which grow in large clusters.

Related Posts:

Ways to maintain healthy lawns and gardens without using harmful chemicals

July 19th, 2010
4251661780 7332965131 m Ways to maintain healthy lawns and gardens without using harmful chemicals

Every homeowner’s dream is a lush lawn, beautiful flowers and mouth-watering home grown produce. If only we could wave a magic wand and say “Make it so.” Unfortunately, there are enemies to fight before we achieve our dream. These enemies come in the form of bugs, weeds and diseases. Past use of powerful chemicals proved to be even more harmful than the pests they were used on. Now we are discovering environment friendly ways to control pests.

Hoeing and pulling are the age-old ways to get rid of weeds and these are certainly viable today. These activities not only control weeds but provide good exercise and therapy for the doer. For the rest of us who are lazy, agricultural experts recommend organic herbicides. Some of the most successful one combine clove oil (eugenol), acidic acid (strong vinegar) and citric acid. These work on most grassy weeds, including broadleaf weeds and will not damage other plants. Clove oil by itself works on dandelions. Soap-based herbicides remove the protective covering on some invasive weeds, causing the roots to disintegrate.

It may be hard for a gardener to accept, but there are beneficial bugs. Encouraging lady bugs to hang around, for instance, can help control other leaf-eating bugs. There are also certain plants that discourage buggy pests. Planting marigolds by tomatoes and roses controls aphids that feed on these. Garlic plants will prevent other plant-destroying bugs in gardens.

There are also tricks to the way gardens are planted that can reduce attacks of fungus, molds and even invasive weeds. Plant squash and cabbage in close rows, for instance, prevent sun-seeking weeds from spreading. Planting potatoes in hillocks reduces the likelihood of molds and fungus. Watering moderately and at certain times of the day can also reduce molds and fungus.

The use of mulch not only cuts down on weeds, but holds moisture at the roots keeping the plants from drying out. Compost adds nutrients without using chemicals and is a good way to get rid of some garbage. Egg shells, coffee grounds, banana peelings and raw fish remains are some of the best items for compost.

Depending of what is to be grown, there are environmentally safe ways to control the “enemies”. In addition, most of these techniques are relatively inexpensive. Check with your local agricultural office, research appropriate web sites or consult your local library to find what will work best for your area.

Related Posts:

Caring For Your Roses

July 19th, 2010
3891566232 f334673242 m Caring For Your Roses

WATERING

Roses are deep rooted and once they are well established are more capable than most plants of surviving mild drought spells. The first spring and summer directly after planting your rose is very important. During this period if the soil around your rose seems to be drying out give your roses a good soaking. Each rose could get about 2 gallons of water. In following years you will only need to water them if drought seems imminent.

FEEDING YOUR ROSES

As with all plants that provide us with beautiful blooms they need plenty of the correct nutrients. Give roses a good helping of blood, bone and fishmeal in early April, about two handfuls to each rose. In June a handful of specially prepared rose fertilizer will give your roses a huge lift. The magnesium and potash gives the rose a great kick. Just work the fertilizer in gently around the soil at the base of the plant.

MULCHING YOUR ROSES.

Mulching is a very simple task with great benefits. Mulching retains moisture, smothers weeds and generally boosts the health of your roses. Well rotted manure is best but garden compost or bark mulch can also be used.

DEADHEADING YOUR ROSES.

Deadheading spent blooms not only tidys up the rose but actually saves the plants energy and thereby encourages more bloom flushes. A light pruning of hybrid teas will encourage a second flush.

WATCH OUT FOR ROSE SUCKERS.

Shoots that emerge from rootstocks are known as suckers. These will be different in coloring and often by the amount of leaves, than what grows from the stems over ground. Gently scrape away the soil until you can see where the sucker is growing from the rootstock, tear the sucker away cleanly.

CONTROL OF WEEDS.

Mulching is the most effective method of controlling weeds and also the less back breaking. Hoeing is not as effective and you must take care not to damage the stems. Sowing other plants underneath the rose is also an option. The least favored option is the application of a rose-bed weedkiller. This will eventually damage the soil and thus your rose.

ROSE DISEASES AND PESTS.

This is an area that turns people off growing roses and really it shouldn’t. Roses have diseases and pests particular to them and as such regular treatment is very effective. The main problems are greenfly, mildew and blackspot. There are plenty of products that treat these main three problems in one treatment. Performing a regular maintenance schedule starting in April will leave you with very few problems. Do make sure to follow exactly the manufacturers recommendations.

Pruning Roses

Pruning Rose Bushes is a term that often strikes fear into the heart of the inexperienced gardener and sometimes the more experienced.

Rose Bush Pruning really is a straightforward task when approached with the correct tools and a clear mind as to the results you want. Use the following guide to pruning rose bushes and youll never again dread the task. Even better will be the fact that your rose bushes will benefit enormously. You have to be cruel to be kind.

An absolute must have is a good pair of secateurs. Spend a little more and go for a middle range or better rose pruners. Using poorly designed secateurs will at best result in ineffective rose bush pruning and more often than not totally damage the roses.

Cuts have to be made cleanly and above a bud. Poorly made cuts encourage disease. Prune out dead, diseased or weak stems. Cut out stems crossing over the middle, you are looking for a tulip glass effect. For mature rose bushes cut back to about knee height. Of course this is not the complete guide to pruning roses but it does provide you with an accurate overview of this essential task.

Your roses will respond brilliantly to a little regular maintenance and once you have started your routine there will be very little work attached. Issues will only arise once you neglect your routine and this is what often deters people from growing roses.

Related Posts: