Archive for September, 2009

10 Must Have Garden Tools

September 14th, 2009
4006586963 f1e5606e32 m 10 Must Have Garden Tools

For anyone interested in gardening, the thrill of getting your hands dirty, smelling the fresh dirt and watching your carefully nurtured plants grow from seeds into proper bushes that produce flowers or veggies is the most important draw.

Very few people who hate gardening actually make much progress with it, it seems to be one of those things that you’ll do if you love it.

When gardening, it’s a good idea to have good quality tools on hand. These will make the entire process faster and easier and leave you more time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. There’s nothing so sweet as strawberries plucked fresh from the patch that you planted and nurtured yourself and the right tools will help you grow more than just one small patch.

Top Ten Gardening Tools

1. Automatic sprinklers. Good gardeners know that the best time to water the garden is before the sun comes up, since water droplets can magnify the sun and cause the plants to burn. But unless you are truly dedicated, chances are you won’t be getting up before the sun to stand out in the garden with a hose. The other option is to set up automated sprinklers that are set to go off at a certain time. This is also very handy for keeping the garden watered while you are away on vacation.

2. Gardening multi-Tool. Why carry ten different gardening tools when just one will do? A multi-tool is based on a military concept that combined pliers and a variety of other tools and blades into one tool. Likewise, a gardening multi-tool will include handy items like a saw, weed remover and wire cutters, among others, all tucked into the handle of a nice pruner. The whole thing is the size of a handheld trimmer and can be easily slipped into your belt, making those frequent trips back to the garden shed obsolete.

3. Garden stool. Most gardeners are familiar with those handy little kneepads that help keep your body from getting too stiff while in the position to weed, but not everyone is able to stay on their knees for extended periods of time. A simple garden stool lets you sit while you work and is low enough to the ground to provide easy access to weeds. Look for one that has wheels and you won’t even need to carry it from one vegetable patch to the next. Some stools also feature storage space under a lift-top which lets you store your tools, seeds and gloves all in one place.

4. Folding garden bucket. These handy buckets are ideal for working with in the garden or anywhere you need to be weeding and want somewhere to toss the weeds. This type of bucket is roomy, but lightweight and can simply be twisted and folded down to a light disc that takes up virtually no room in the gardening shed. They are usually made of sturdy fabric, so they can just be hosed down, which makes cleanup nice and simple.

5. Anti-pest decoys. These range from the familiar scarecrow, which rarely works anymore, to realistic owls that swivel their heads when sensing motion. No matter what your style of garden, there is a way to frighten off birds and other critters that would like to share in your harvest. If you aren’t interested in moving birds or metallic streamers that twirl in the wind to frighten off would-be raiders, then you can always opt for motion sensor sprinklers that are barely noticeable, yet have good results.

6. Non-kinking hose. The hose is one of the more basic gardening tools, but if you opt for cheap ones, they’ll be full of holes in no time, not to mention kinking up right when you need water the most. It’s well worth the money to invest in a non-kink hose. Not only will it never bend so sharply as to cut the flow of water off, these types of hoses tend to last far longer than regular plastic ones.

7. Ergonomic grips. There are so many different gardening tools on the market that it can be difficult to choose which trowel, rake or other small implement you should purchase. The best tools will have ergonomic grips on them, large, comfortable handles that won’t strain or irritate your hands when using them. Look for softer handles, as well, since unaccustomed use of wood can give blisters.

8. Aerator shoes. These aren’t really shoes, they are actually spiked plates that strap onto your gardening shoes. As you move about, weeding, planting and trimming, the spikes drive into the earth with each step and help aerate it. This is just another way to improve the health of your garden without any extra work, something busy gardeners will appreciate. .

9. Ph soil tester. While the average person might not care if their soil is acidic or not, this is just the sort of thing that will matter to the avid gardener. When you discover what the Ph of your soil is, you can adjust it to produce the best environment for your plants. In some cases, such as with hydrangea, the acidity of the soil actually determines the color of the flowers.

10. Good gardening gloves. Perhaps one of the most important gardening tools, gloves protect hands from things like blackberry or rose thorns. They also keep hands from becoming completely saturated in dirt or fish meal, neither of which is pleasant. Good gardening gloves will be soft enough to be comfortable, yet sturdy to allow for long term use. Most have small dots or other types of gripping paint on the palms to aid with friction.

By selecting the best gardening tools possible, you ensure that your time in the garden will be enjoyable. There’s nothing fun about working with difficult tools that make it hard to do even the simplest chores. Instead, invest in real tools and have a great time with your gardening.

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Bugs that are good for your garden – Part 1

September 5th, 2009
2882836644 65f66dce81 m Bugs that are good for your garden   Part 1

The newest bug-killers and disease-fighters on the market aren’t cutting edge chemicals. They’re insects.

Heard of IPM?

“Integrated Pest Management” was originally developed in the 1950s by one of the world’s foremost authorities on insect control, a scientist named Edward Knipling. Farmers noticed that some of the most awful insects were developing resistance to DDT. Dr. Knipling looked for ways to identify their natural enemies – and “IPM” was born.

Ladybugs. Praying Mantises. Non-stinging, predatory Wasps and beneficial Beetles that attack the planet’s most evil insects and stop them dead in their tracks. Almost too good to believe, but GOOD bugs top the list of every 21st-century gardener’s best friend. Odds are, they’re already flying around your backyard right now.

What makes these beneficial bugs unique is that they all do something your old-fashioned, noxious, chemical pesticides will never do. They hunt.

Garden-friendly, carniverous insects sweep through your yard like mini-robotic vacuum cleaners, sucking up bad bugs and their eggs and larvae. No sweat. These are the perfect pesticides. And they could not be cheaper, simpler, more effective, or Earth-friendlier.

Take Tea Roses. If you’re a Ladybug, there’s no better way to start your day than with a breakfast of fat, juicy Aphids clustered around an unopened Rosebud. Aphids are the highlight of any Ladybug’s day.

Sprinkle a packet of Ladybugs at the base of infested plants and watch. Ladybugs instantly go hunting for breakfast. These insects are on your side. For the hapless enemy – aphids – there’s simply no escape.

Lawn grubs? These and their Japanese Beetle adult relatives can kiss your grass goodbye when you sprinkle a dose of lethal Milky Spore Disease over the soil. Don’t worry – the Milky Spore bacterium is benign when it comes to plants and animals.

Gypsy Moths? No problem. Pint sized Ooencyrtus kuvanae, a helpful, non-stinging Wasp, lays its eggs directly on top of a clutch of Gypsy Moth eggs. When the Wasp larvae hatch, their first meal is right underneath them. O. kuvanae is also fond of Eastern Tent Caterpillars. Put the O.k. out and watch them work.

Praying Mantises do their work in the dark at night, crawling up stems and along branches until they find a sleeping insect. Any bug that gets in the way of a Mantis is in trouble – and that includes Ladybugs, so don’t mix the two, or you’ll diminish your population of those good insects.

Friendly Pirate Bugs can’t resist thrips,

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Protecting Your Roses

September 2nd, 2009
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You need to consider three elements in order to protect your roses. First, you need to retain the moisture; second, preserve a suitable temperature in the soil; third, stop weed-growth. What is called a “dust-mulch,” maintained by frequent hoeing, is, perhaps, the best method, although, where the summers are warm, a covering in early July of long, “strawy,” cow-, pig-, or horse-stable manure that will not heat, will also do the trick.

The lighter and more chaff-like portion should be removed in the spring and the richer part dug in. Peat-moss is even better than a manure-mulch, because the latter may encourage root-growth nearer the surface than is desirable. You can also trying using sawdust to cover the beds in summer. It certainly prevents the need for weeding and otherwise seemed beneficial. Another plan is to plant some low-growing and shallow-rooting ground-cover plant, like violas (pansies) or portulacas. These grow quickly from seed and should be established by mid-July.

PROTECTING FROM FROST. Where the temperature falls below freezing, the less hardy rose varieties should be partly covered, and all roses will be the better for some protection, at least about the roots. If you are visited with zero weather, let “preparedness” be your rule. To begin with, bank up the soil cone-shaped, with the apex 6 to 10 inches high around the stem of each bush. Ashes are sometimes used, but we know of nothing that is better than soil.

In very cold countries, the roses may be lifted entirely and buried in trenches for the winter, and they will come out in fine shape for replanting in spring. After you have drawn the soil nicely around them, leave them alone till the ground is frozen with a crust hard enough to bear the weight of a stone-laden wheelbarrow. By this time the moles and mice, or other creatures, will have secured their winter abodes elsewhere, and not be tempted to make nests in the protecting material you will next apply. Now do not smother your roses, or they may die. Cover them thoroughly, as high up as you attempt to protect them, but always allow for the circulation of air. A 3- or 4-inch blanket of good, heavy stable-manure will keep out much cold.

Protecting tree roses is very important. Pampas grass or eulalia or rye straw may be tied round the stems an inch thick, but the top and union of stem and top are the critical points. The branches, if pruned back a bit and tied up, leave a convenient shape to encase in material that will turn sun, wind, rain, snow, and ice. Try patent waterproof wrapping- paper for this. In severe climates roses are sometimes taken up and buried bodily in a trench in the vegetable-garden and then replaced in the spring.

FIGHTING INSECT ENEMIES. Eternal vigilance is the price of perfect flowers, because “prevention is better than cure.” Vigorous, healthy plants are seldom troubled much. The two golden rules to remember are these: Keep sharp watch out for the first appearance of insect or fungous pests and adopt measures for destruction at once. Then persevere with the remedy adopted until a cure has been effected.

Cleanliness is very important. Keep your roses clean and healthy and that will go a long way toward making them vigorous and happy. The beginners need not be dismayed at the array of troubles that may happen; if they do, these hints are offered as a “first aid.” As a matter of fact, not all the pests are likely to appear in the same garden. Rose-growing is not so complicated or difficult as might appear.

Among the insect enemies to the rose, about the earliest to appear is the rose aphis, which can easily be controlled by an application of “Black-Leaf 40″ or whale-oil soap in solution, applied with a sprayer, and the sooner the better.

There follow the rose slugs, including the American rose slugs, bristly slug, and the coiled slug, so called, all of which can be overcome by the use of a solution of 1 ounce of arsenate of lead in 11/2 gallons of water. The rose-leaf roller may also be treated with the same spray and by hand-picking. The rose-leaf hopper may be controlled with the same treatment as the rose aphis.

Perhaps the worst enemy to roses is the rose chafer (or rose beetle or rose bug). The little chap avoids poisons. You may ensnare him by adding some glucose or molasses to arsenate of lead, to make it stick to the foliage and to make it more tempting to him. There are commercial preparations In the market that are effective. It is even worth while covering very valuable plants while blooming with mosquito netting.

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Japanese Beetles in the Roses

September 1st, 2009
4007332250 fef80b8ab1 m Japanese Beetles in the Roses

Adult Japanese beetles are one quarter to one half inch long with copper colored wing covers and a shiny metallic green head. Between the green head and tiny tufts of white hair along their side youll recognize them easily as they happily munch on your roses.
While they generally dont eat dogwood, forsythia, holly, lilac, evergreens and Hosta, theyll eat darn near everything else. These beetles feed on flowers and fruits making a skeleton of the leaves by eating the green parts and leaving the veins. Adults are most active from 9 a.m. 3 p.m. on warm summer days. These voracious pests prefer plants in direct sun, so shady areas are usually less damaged.
The bacterial spore, sold as Doom or Grub Attack is generally used to control these pests. Using a hormone lure in your yard simply attracts more beetles to your yard. Put the lure somewhere else a hundred yards away encouraging the beetles to go elsewhere. Unfortunately, reducing the beetles in your yard will not reduce their attacks in succeeding years. These beetles are great fliers and can travel upwards of ten miles from where they hatched.
Handpicking is also effective on your prized plants drop the beetles into a bucket of soapy water to kill them. There is some data that suggests hand picking is as effective as spraying noxious chemicals and you know you have killed the beetle when it drowns in your soapy bucket. One trick is to hold the bucket of soapy water under the plant and then shake the plant. Beetles will fall off the plant right into the bucket and youll get more beetles if you do this in the early morning before they start feeding and flying. Several birds (grackles, cardinals, meadowlarks) feed on the adult beetles so encourage birds in your yard.
If you decide to use a lure, place it at least 100 feet away from your garden. Lures attract beetles and if you place one in your garden, youll have all the neighbors beetles visiting as well. Find a neighbor who doesnt garden to host the lures and traps.

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